Sunday, April 25, 2010

Spine Alignment in Golf Shafts...VooDoo or Valid?

     Ahhh, here we come to one of the more mysterious aspects of clubmaking...spine alignment.  A quick definition is in order to make sure that we are all on the same page as we delve into one of the most mis-understood tools in the clubmaker's chest as it relates to the pursuit and art of creating the most consistent set of clubs possible.  Golf shafts do not have "spines" as the academic definition would have you believe.  Whether this be thought of as a weld seam in a steel shaft or a composite rod inserted along the length of a graphite shaft.  A "spine" simply refers to a plane of greatest stiffness or most resistence to bending within a shaft.  Although light years ahead of only a few years ago, manufacturing tolerances and techniques are simply not able to produce a completely uniform shaft in all dimensions including straightness and flex in every direction of possible shaft load.
     As with many other subjects in the game of golf, clubmaking not withstanding, you are bound to run across a veritable smorgasbord of opinions on the relevance and proper technique of shaft spine alignment when building quality golf clubs.  Opinions vary from "I will not build a set of clubs without aligning all the spines in a certain direction," to "It really isn't necessary".  As a Golfer I can see the benefits of the concept.  As a Clubmaker I see the need for a method to ensure consistency from club to club.  As a Scientist, I am still struggling with the current methodology for determining and then aligning the "spine" of the golf shaft.  Hopefully, by combining all three of my personalities, I can best serve my clients by providing the highest quality equipment available. 
     The concept of spine alignment is simple...align the stiffest plane of the golf shaft in a manner that will produce consistent club behavior swing after swing.  It makes sense on a fundamental level.  This definition opens the door for the scientist to ask, "IF I can find the plane of greatest stiffness, what direction should I align it to because the golf shaft is loaded in at LEAST two different planes during the swing.  The first plane being the heel toe plane as the downswing is initiated, and second most prominent is the face back plane as the clubhead bends forward at release."  Now we have identified two planes.  What happens now when we further compound the problem by introducing individual swing characteristics and shaft load patterns?  Some golfers do not release the club, some release the club too early essentially eliminating the forward bending of the shaft at impact.  How should we align the shaft spines to maximize their performance?  Other golfers load the shaft hard with a quick transition while still others are silky smooth swingers that place a minimal load on shaft while still producing great clubhead speed.  How should we address their spine alignment? 
     I am neither naive or arrogant enough to profess that I have all of the answers.  I have done enough research  and experimentation to develop my personal philosophies and prove that they work when applied to specific situations.  If you have questions on spine alignment or are simply interested in the concept and would like to chat, please drop us a line at tourtechgolf.com.  WE LOVE TALKING SHOP!

Fairways and Greens.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

The Light Shaft Movement

I ran across this article in Golfweek (http://www.golfweek.com/news/2010/apr/20/driver-shafts-lighter-options-lure-big-hitters/) about big hitters on tour moving toward lighter golf shafts.  Why?  Well, the obvious answer is to increase distance through increased swingspeed.  The shaft is the one component of any golf club that has the greatest ability to affect the total weight of the club.  Scientific theory says that a lighter object requires less force to move it (ok, so this is extrememly oversimplified, but hopefully you get the picture).  By making the club lighter, there is a possibility to increase swingspeed.  The same applies to using longer shafts to increase club head speed (again using the laws of physics to our advantage, but club length will be digested in a later post I'm sure).  Distance is raw product of the transfer of energy (swingspeed + head mass) from the club head to the golf ball.  Lighter and longer shafts open the door to possible gains in distance by generating more speed.  Manufacturers have recently begun to exploit these principles by pushing the average driver length to 45.5 inches or more and the average shaft weight down to 65 grams.  This is a far cry from the standard of say, ten years ago when drivers were 43.5 inches long and had steel shafts that weighed as much as 125 grams. 

But what's the catch?  The one word answer is CONTROL.  I am by no means discouraging anyone from buying a 47 inch driver with a 45 gram shaft if that is what they want, but I will say that you WILL hit fewer fairways with it.  Distance also depends on one small factor, hitting the golf ball with the maximum amount of energy (derived from a combination of speed and MASS) in the center of the clubface to minimize energy loss from twisting of the clubhead resulting from an off-center hit.  An off-center hit negatively affects the direction and distance of any shot.  I know everyone saw the article in Golf Digest a few issues back touting that almost half of the golfers tested benefitted from the longer and lighter drivers.  What they forgot to tell everyone is that the sample size (number of golfers tested) was extremely small.  I will bet a dollar to a doughnut (I have NO idea where this expression comes from...) that if the sample size was increased to several hunderd golfers, the results would have been quite different. 

Obviously not all golfers are the same and FEEL plays a large part in what is comfortable and therefore effective for any one golfer.  My recommendation is that you find a professional fitter (that knows what he or she is actually doing) to help you determine the best combination of length and weight for your game.  Feel free to drop us a line with any fitting questions that you may have at http://www.tourtechgolf.com/.

Fairways and Greens

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

How To Choose the Proper Golf Grip

     Grips are often overlooked as they aren’t quite as exciting as the promise of a new club head or shaft that is taunting new distance or accuracy gains never before seen by the eyes of man. The grip is however; the golfer’s only direct connection to that shiny new driver with the latest exotic shaft that guarantees 300 yard drives straight down the middle. If the grip does not do its job, the most expensive, hottest new club to hit the market, isn’t going to do anyone any good.
     There are a few factors to consider when choosing a grip. Grips now come in a variety of colors, materials, tactile patterns, durometers (or firmness) and of course, sizes. Before getting all confused, just relax…the most effective grip is the one that feels comfortable in the hand and is pleasing to the eye. If you want a grip to match your alma matter’s colors, it’s probably available. Choose a tactile pattern and firmness that feels comfortable to you. Some golfers prefer firmer grips with cord woven into the polymer or rubber compound while others prefer the softer more supple feel of a leather or simulated leather grip. It’s all personal preference.
     The sole purpose of the grip is to provide a secure link between golfer and club so that the golfer can deliver the club to the ball as consistently as possible. The most influential variable in that equation is grip size. Obviously we don’t all have the same size hands so we don’t all need the same size grips. Here is where performance and comfort collide. The general thought among many club makers and PGA pros is that if a grip is too large it will promote a slice and if it is too small it will promote a hook. The laws of physics tell us that in theory this is correct, however it doesn’t stack up to the law of golfers. A smaller grip is easier to rotate in the hands allowing the clubface to close more easily before impact and promote a hook. A larger grip is just the opposite. Again, the theory makes logical sense, put practically it fades. The only cases of grip size having a noticeable affect on influencing shot shape are in instances of gross over or under-sized grips for a golfer’s hands. A common cause of directional inconsistency related to grip size can be seen when a grip is either too large or small in the hand so that it isn’t comfortable to the golfer causing a tight or tense grip. When this scenario presents itself it leads to a tensing of the muscles from the hands up through the forearms to the shoulders and permeates through the rest of the body leading to poor swings. Improperly fit grips also affect shot accuracy by causing the golfer to subconsciously re-grip the club DURING THE SWING in an effort to find a comfortable hold on the club!
     A properly sized grip should be comfortable to hold and waggle without feeling like you will lose control. Again, rules of thumb are only good for measuring thumbs (no pun intended), but this chart provides a good starting place for selecting a grip size.


This article is by no means designed to be an exhaustive concordance on grip fitting but simply provided to arm you with a little information when the time comes to regrip or buy that shiny new driver. Drop us a line on grip selection, we’ll be more than happy to help!

Fairways and Greens...

Friday, April 9, 2010

How Do I Choose Shaft Flex?

I get this question almost everyday...what flex should I hit? My answer is always that...it depends. The technical variables involved such as swingspeed, shaft load, swing weight, kickpoint or profile are often obscured by the fact that there is no industry standard for flex. One manufacturer's stiff flex is another manufacturer's regular flex. There are even variances within manufacturer's between different models, so...it depends. The goal is to create a consistent feeling and performing SET of clubs. Remember, each club is a tool designed for a specific job, some need to hit the ball high to land soft while others need to produce a more penetrating flight for maximum distance and roll out.
I always say that rules of thumb are only good for measuring thumbs, but this one seems to hold pretty true. You will gain the most balanced performance from playing the most flexible shaft that YOU CAN CONTROL. Control is the key here, hitting the ball 300 yards doesn't do you much good if you're taking a penalty drop afterwards!
Keeping on top of the latest and greatest products and specs is what we do so feel free to drop us a line anytime with your fitting questions!
Fairways and Greens